 

 

|
 |

07-01-2009, 08:35 AM
|
|
Fresh Paint
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 5
|
|
|
mask cutting problem
So, here it is. I have transparent mask that is very similar to frisket that I want to use to make the stencil to paint the image on the side cover in the pic. Problem is that no matter how lightly I cut it still leaves cut marks in the underlying plastic side cover. Any suggestions as how to avoid this ? I thought about cutting the mask then laying it on the sidecover but there are far too many fine lines and points in the image..... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
|

07-01-2009, 08:59 AM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 173
|
|
|
Hi,
Here is my suggestions: First, put transfer tape on your mask. Cut the different parts on your transfer tape, remove the parts you don't need and apply the mask on your project using the transfer tape. You might have to reduce the stickiness of your transfer tape (by sticking a couple times on your jeans) to be able to easily remove your mask from it.
This should work :0)
-Colin
|

07-01-2009, 10:28 AM
|
 |
I'm not mean, really!
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 834
|
|
Little backwards there colin
Cut your design while its on the backing paper etc... then use transfer tape (light tack tape) on top of your newly cut mask, peel it off the backing paper, apply to your item, burnish down, then remove the transfer tape.
Its the standard way to apply vinyl stickers/decals/masks etc...
Also, you can cut on your project w/o making lines, but it takes a long time to learn the right pressure and develop the skill for cutting masking. All I can say there is practice, practice, practice...
__________________
Its all about commitment. Bacon and Eggs breakfast, the chicken is involved, but the pig is commited. BE....THAT....PIG
|

07-01-2009, 12:53 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 173
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonJones
Little backwards there colin
Cut your design while its on the backing paper etc... then use transfer tape (light tack tape) on top of your newly cut mask, peel it off the backing paper, apply to your item, burnish down, then remove the transfer tape.
Its the standard way to apply vinyl stickers/decals/masks etc...
Also, you can cut on your project w/o making lines, but it takes a long time to learn the right pressure and develop the skill for cutting masking. All I can say there is practice, practice, practice...
|
I prefer to cut directly on the transfer tape, it holds the frisket better in place :0)
-Colin
|

07-01-2009, 01:00 PM
|
 |
Professional
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Temiskaming Shores, Ontario
Posts: 1,380
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonJones
Little backwards there colin
Cut your design while its on the backing paper etc... then use transfer tape (light tack tape) on top of your newly cut mask, peel it off the backing paper, apply to your item, burnish down, then remove the transfer tape.
Its the standard way to apply vinyl stickers/decals/masks etc...
Also, you can cut on your project w/o making lines, but it takes a long time to learn the right pressure and develop the skill for cutting masking. All I can say there is practice, practice, practice...
|
JJ's right. This is the proper way of doing it.
The method you use might work for you Colin but if he's having problems cutting into the substrate, I would imagine he'll end up cutting into the transfer tape as well!
__________________
Iwata HP-BC, HP-C
Paasche Talon x 2
Power Built 3hp. 5gal. Compressor
Auto Air/Borne paints
|

07-01-2009, 05:17 PM
|
|
Fresh Paint
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7
|
|
|
Some tips for cutting, because I'm a newbie who just went through the same pains... Make sure you're using Stencil blades, use only the tip, and be prepared to go through 2 or 3 blades on a complicated design like that. If the blade is the least bit dull, you'll end up applying too much pressure.
Also, like everyone else is saying, get yourself a cutting mat and cut the vinyl mask on it. Then transfer it to your plastic case with transfer tape.
There might be better ways, but that's what finally worked out for me.
|

07-01-2009, 06:08 PM
|
 |
I'm not mean, really!
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Arizona
Posts: 834
|
|
|
On the subject of blades... scrap the $2/blade "stencil" blades from XActo... Go to the medical supply house and buy a student scalpel. Will run you $10 for the kit with a few blades, and you can get a box of blades CHEAP from them. They last about 10x as long as the xacto blades and are WAY sharper. They are also thinner with curved blade. I've found they make cutting very detailed stuff out much easier. They are also more "tactile" than the xacto so you can feel what you're cutting and you've broken through the mask etc...
now days for most stuff I just use a straight "safety" razor... 100pk for $2 from harbor freight, I got through them like toiletpaper... much more econimical.
__________________
Its all about commitment. Bacon and Eggs breakfast, the chicken is involved, but the pig is commited. BE....THAT....PIG
|

07-03-2009, 11:52 AM
|
 |
Garage Professional
|
|
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 735
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonJones
now days for most stuff I just use a straight "safety" razor... 100pk for $2 from harbor freight, I got through them like toiletpaper... much more econimical.
|
Just dont confuse them with toilet paper! OUCH!
Same here... I use those blades and i don't care how many I go through.. cheap cheap cheap!
__________________
New and Improved... The WHIPLASH WEBSITE!! Posted some WIP's with the final product, many of the TUTORIALS that you find in here and an all new gallery!
www.whiplashpaint.com
|
 |
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|